Understanding Ease

Once you have selected the correct pattern size for your figure, it is now important to evaluate how that pattern is supposed to fit and if it will fit that way on you. Then you can determine whether it is necessary to adjust the pattern before you cut out the fabric or start to sew.

Determine the ease allowed on the pattern you have chosen by looking at the pattern tissue.

Each pattern has the bust point and hipline marked with a target symbol on the main front pattern piece showing you exactly where the shaping and fullness for the bust and hip are, so there’s no confusion about where to make any necessary adjustments.

The total garment measurement -- the measurement of the finished garment around the bust or the hips if sewn as the pattern comes out of the envelope without any adjustments -- is also given for you.

Any details such as seam allowances, darts, pleats or tucks are not included in this measurement.

The total amount of ease will vary from one pattern to the next. It’s important to read the full description on the envelope back to understand the designer’s intent for the fit.

To evaluate how much ease the garment will have on your figure, subtract your bust and hip measurements from the total garment measurements.

This tells you how much ease the garment will have when you wear it.

Compare with the amount of ease the pattern is supposed to have to decide if you need to make some pattern adjustments.

Use the ease allowance chart and drawings to better understand the descriptions of fit that appear on the catalog page and the back of the pattern envelope.

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