Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing

by: David Page Coffin

Topics include: flat felling, eased seam, stitching box, felling foot, rolled hemmer, inner yoke, drape method, classic shirt, poplin broadcloth, sleeve angle, yoke seam, separate collar, armscye seams, cuff patterns, knitted sleeves, neckline seam, cuff seam, basic shirt, felled seams, sleeve pattern, sleeve plackets, shirt pattern, sleeve cap, shirting fabrics, stop with the needle

Book Description:

Editorial Reviews From Library Journal The author, associate editor of Threads magazine, states in the introduction that he makes shirts "for the pleasure of the process, rather than as a time-saving or money-saving necessity." Designed for the experienced sewer who desires to re-create the custom-fitted look of the expensive shirtmakers, this guide examines the anatomy of shirts, the steps in patternmaking, and the techniques in shirt construction for both men's and women's garments, whether Oxford cloth, silk, or wool. Line drawings detail fabric types; shirtmaker's tools; pattern detail; precision sewing procedures for collars, pockets, packets, and cuffs; as well as the many other aspects of the shirtmaking process. One section offers ideas for variations on the classic shirt theme. Details on monogramming and sources of supplies complete the work. A companion video (unseen), Shirtmaking with David Page Coffin (45 minutes, Copyright Reed Business Information, Inc

For passionate shirtmakers -- This is a great book for people who've wanted to pull apart a commercially made shirt to see how it's made and replicate it. The information is VERY detailed and the author is VERY passionate about shirtmaking and the various techniques. This is a plus and a minus for the book - to get the best out of the book you really do need to READ the book; there are no quick fix solutions, just fabulous detail. So, if you're looking for a book offering quick, concise information this book is NOT for you. But if you're passionate about producing a professionally made garment and enjoy learning detailed techniques buy the book.

Finally something for men -- My only disappointment with this book is that there isn't a whole series of them for pants, jackets and so on. Even if you don't sew, this really was an eye opener for how fine shirts are made, how they should fit and details to look for. He goes into wonderful detail on sewing technique and why. My former tailoring teacher always harped that we didn't want things to look like "Loving Hands from Home"-- Coffin's techniques help guarantee that the effort and time you expend will ensure that your final product is well worth the time over the bargain shirt you can buy on sale.

Better than store bought -- I only wish he would write a book about pants making or tailoring! This is my ultimate reference for shirt sewing! I have had it for over 6 years and I still pull it out every time I make a new shirt. I still use his placket pattern and instructions. It is beautifully illustrated and includes not only better-than-store-bought details like flat felled seams and quality interfacings, but some really interesting design ideas. Only 1 thing! source info in the back is out of date. If you are near Houston, try "High Fashion Fabric" for the best cottons. Shirtmaking taken to new heights! -- I have all the deepest respect for David Coffin. He has meticulously studied every aspect of making the classic men's shirt and has taught himself how to reproduce the techniques of the finest couture houses. In addition to his skill at sewing, he demonstrates his artistic strengths through his personally-illustrated drawings which show the techniques in great detail. In fact, "detail" would be Mr. Coffin's signature strength. His ability to relay the information in straightforward, efficient language seems to be a natural extension of his talents. Incidentally, I could not find a single spelling, grammar or other editorial error anywhere in this book. I think that seems like a perfect example of the manner in which Mr. Coffin approaches his work.

Reviews:

Sewing shirts with precision (excerpted) -- I wrote this book because no one else had. Fifteen years ago when I decided I wanted to make top-quality dress shirts, I was surprised to find no information on shirtmaking beyond basic pattern instructions. So I began to comb libraries, magazines and bookstores for answers. From what I've found over the years, and from what I've had to improvise, I've evolved the techniques presented in this book. It would perhaps be more accurate to say that from the "hints" I found I've evolved the present techniques, since in no case was I able to use information from other sources without somehow modifying or adding to it to achieve what I was after -- namely, a simple, efficient way to make a shirt at home as good as the best shirts available, which I could ill afford....

Sewing shirts with precision -- Here is the definitive resource on the fine art of making shirts. Author David Page Coffin shows how to create elegant, custom-fit garments for a woman or a man that have a great tailored look and fit perfectly. And, even more important, once you learn to make and fit a shirt -- whether you have sewn for weeks or years -- your sewing skills will be dramatically improved. David shares the construction secrets of garments from the world's finest shirtmakers. Discover how to duplicate and even improve on these garments, using simple tools and techniques any sewer can acquire. Includes 15 pages of fill-sized patterns for collars, plackets, cuffs, and pockets. In the companion video, Shirtmaking Techniques, Coffin demonstrates the techniques that are the hallmarks of fine shirtmaking and shows how to master rolled hems, flat-felled seams, collars, cuffs, and plackets. "This book is great -- fresh, focused information on shirtmaking. David Coffin's approach is straightforward and logical...no sooner do you pose a question than he answers it." -- Sandra Betzina, syndicated sewing columnist, author of Power Sewing and More Power Sewing, and host of HGTV's Sew Perfect