Linen and Cotton: Classic Sewing Techniques for Great Results

by: Susan Khalje

Topics include: shoulder pads and sleeve heads, bra carriers, braced seam, thick seam allowances, narrow machine hem, slot seams, seam treatments, fashion fabric, use double thread, stay tape, garment sections, crosswise stretch, thread bars, welt seam, hem lace, bound buttonholes, wing needle, hem allowance, filling yarns, cotton batiste, flat fell, silk organza, narrow bias, stitch size, buttonhole twist

Book Description:

Editorial Reviews -- From Library Journal Khalje, director of the Couture Sewing School and author of Bridal Couture (Krause, 1997), here examines the characteristics of two of the most popular natural fiber fabrics used by home sewers. Major sections of the book are devoted to choosing appropriate patterns, purchasing and preparing fabrics, techniques for sewing on cotton and linen, and decorative details and finishing. Recommended for sewing collections. Copyright 1999 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Book Description -- Linen and cotton are two classic fabrics that are always in style. This second book in the Focus on Fabric series, Linen and Cotton, is the essential sewing room reference for working with these easy-to-wear fabrics. It includes not only sewing techniques, but tips on selecting the right patterns and equipment, preparing and caring for the fabric before and after sewing, and construction techniques. These well-behaved fabrics are the perfect place to try new or complex techniques with confidence. Rarely taught classic couture methods are explained in detail. In one concise volume, sewers can find information on weaves, treatments, finishes, and specialty details like godets, pin tucks, and piping. A gallery of beautiful garments will serve as inspiration to take sewing skills to new heights. With the help of these professional techniques, linen and cotton garments will turn out like expensive ready-to-wear.

Classic sewing techniques for classic fabrics -- My first sewing project was made out of cotton, and I am willing to bet that yours was too. I made a purple gingham pillow cover in Home Economics class. I loved it and can still remember slip-stitching it closed (I thought the slip-stitch was the cleverest thing I’d ever seen). Ever since that first experience I have loved the straightforward charms of cotton and its close friend, linen.

With all of today’s emphasis on the newest, the latest, the most high-tech, it’s refreshing to rediscover the classics: linen and cotton. But classic doesn’t have to mean boring.

I visited a fine fabric store the other day and was amazed by the huge variety of cottons and linens that I found -- from playful to quietly elegant to vibrant to sophisticated. It was truly inspiring.

Linens and cottons are easy to find, easy to work with, and easy to wear and maintain. They are reasonably priced and available in an astonishing range of weights and weaves: from the softest cotton lawns, voiles, and handkerchief linens to the sheerest dotted Swiss, batistes, and organzas to the crispest piqués, chintzes, ginghams, and polished cottons to the most elegant European prints and matelassés to delicately intricate eyelets, laces, and embroideries to the firmest ottomans, failles, twills, and ducks to the sturdiest canvases and heavy-weight linens. Despite their enormous variety, what these fabrics do have in common is a straightforward ease of handling, along with predictable behavior and uncomplicated wear and care. Like the best of friends, linen and cotton fabrics are cooperative and dependable, and seldom difficult.

A garment may begin with design or fabric, but its ultimate success depends upon the compatibility of the two. In turn, that rests largely with the sewer’s familiarity with the fabric. What does it love to do? What does it hate to do? What does it do well? What does it resist doing? Answer these questions and you’ll be able to make the most of your fabric.

As this is a fiber-oriented book (as opposed to a garment-oriented book), it’s useful to have at least a basic acquaintance with fibers, processing, weaves, dyeing techniques, and finishes. Although similar in many ways, linen and cotton react differently to processing and surface treatments. What they have in common is that they’re grown, harvested, processed, woven, dyed, and treated -- usually, but not always, in that order. Not only is the processing of these fibers a fascinating subject in itself, a familiarity with it will broaden your knowledge and appreciation of them, and make you better able to use them well.

Included in this book are a number of sample garments, which cover a range of styles, fabrications, and techniques. The garments range from the elegant to the casual, from styles with careful shaping to those that are soft and flowing. You’ll see the broad range of cottons and linens put to their best use, with a variety of applications for seams, seam finishes, pockets, closures, hems, and finishing details.

Linen and cotton fabrics can serve for many occasions. As you get to know them, or get to know them better, you’ll discover their individuality and come to appreciate their charms. You’ll also learn how to choose and care for cotton and linen before, during, and after construction, so you can use them with confidence from start to finish. I know you’ll enjoy choosing them, working with them, and wearing them.

Linen and cotton are two classic fabrics that are always in style. This second book in the Focus on Fabric series, Linen and Cotton is the essential sewing-room reference for working with these easy-to-wear fabrics. Khalje give you not only sewing techniques, but also tips on selecting the right patterns and equipment, preparing and caring for the fabric before and after sewing, and construction techniques.

These well-behaved fabrics are the perfect place to try new or complex techniques with confidence. You'll find detailed explanations of rarely taught classic couture methods.

In one concise volume, you can find information on weaves, treatments, finishes, and specialty details like godets, pin tucks, and piping. A gallery of beautiful garments will serve as inspiration to take your sewing skills to new heights. With the help of these professional techniques, linen and cotton garments will turn out like expensive ready-to-wear.

Reviews:

I love this book!!, -- I love sewing and I bought this book as cotton and linen are among my favorite fabrics to use when I am making shirts, blouses skirt and dresses. The first part of this book includes information (without getting too technical) on these two types of fabric with emphasis on their numerous qualities, types, processing, weaves, dyeing techniques and finishes. Also included are a number of sample garments that cover a range of styles fabrication and techniques to show how versatile garments one can make (even a wedding gown!!) out of linen or cotton. The author then proceeds to describe various techniques one can apply to achieve great results with the use of very clear diagrams and photographs. This part of the book I found to be the most fascinating.

There is a list of decorative seam treatments and seam finishes that look great on these two fabrics. The author includes techniques on different waistline treatments one can apply in skirts or pants. Better yet, everyone who works with these fabrics should check out the information on the use and application of interfacings, underlinings, facings and linings. Instructions on the use of sleeve heads, staystitching and inner stay tape are also included as well as on the application of decorative details such as pleats, gathers, godets and angled seams, topstitching, decorative stitching, application of lace, binding and even pockets. Finally she concentrates on a number of finishing details regarding closures (zippers, buttons, hooks and eyes, plackets etc.) hems and others.

This book is not intended to provide information on how to make shirts, skirts etc. as it is a fiber-oriented and not a garment-oriented book. The author has managed to write a book with so much information and interesting techniques to apply when working with these fabrics (to give structure, embellish, or add the right finishing detail) that I find it to be most valuable to me. Do try these at home!!

Review of a mere amateur -- I have enjoyed sewing, but have not had time to do any of it for the last few years. Over the last 3, however, I have really gotten "in to" linens, crochet, and embroidery. I don't know what hit me! I have had a college class in sewing, good pointers from a few and have occasionally browsed a couple of books, so take this review with that knowledge. I have worked my way through half of the book, now, and have learned several pointers and have piqued my interest and desire to sew again even more. I think the book is very enjoyable, and the only reason that I didn't rate it higher, is that, I'm not sure if my judgement would be critical. There should be some rating scheme for the reviewers, also! I don't know how this compares to others, but I am actually _reading_ it -- through and through, not just skipping. Enjoy!